Chikankari : Extraordinaire threads of Grace

Prologue

All the women in the family, the young and the old, sit on a wooden bed and modhas (a small sitting table) on the inner porch. An artistically made brass pandan (betel case) rests in a corner to satiate the tastebuds of the elderly and some not so elderly too.  A gentle breeze is so welcoming after morning chores. Amidst shared tales and lighthearted laughter over trivial jokes, they take moments to marvel at the exquisite embroidery taking form on a swatch of fabric. With unwavering focus, their gazes remain affixed to the fabric, their skilled fingers intricately etching verses onto the cloth. Their eyes glimmer with a sense of accomplishment as the fruits of their skill and devotion gradually unfurl before them. As the day gracefully melds into dusk, they tenderly fold the cloth, securing every cherished element in its rightful place. This is how Chikanakri traveled centuries from generation to generation.

Introduction to Chikankari

Chikankari is an exquisite form of embroidery, which has been an integral part of India’s cultural heritage for centuries. This delicate art has transcended time and remains a symbol of elegance, craftsmanship, and the rich cultural tapestry of India. This has its origins in Lucknow, during the Mughal era. The intricate patterns, stitches, and delicate designs of Chikankari embroidery have captured the imagination of people worldwide, making it one of the most sought-after embroidery styles in the world.

Historical Background

The roots of Chikankari can be traced back to the 17th century during the reign of Emperor Jahangir. It is said that it was introduced by Noorjehan who was a migrant from Persia. The word Chikankari is derived from the Persian word Chikeen. It was a cherished art form, primarily patronized by the Mughal nobility and aristocracy. Chikankari’s popularity grew steadily, and it soon found its way into the traditional crafts of Lucknow and its surrounding regions.

GI Status

Chikankari from Lucknow was given a GI status in the year 2008. According to WIPO “A geographical indication (GI) is a sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that origin. In order to function as a GI, a sign must identify a product as originating in a given place.”

Craftsmanship and Techniques

Chikankari is a labor-intensive art form that requires great skill, patience, and attention to detail. The process from the conceptualization of the design to the final product is a lengthy one. It begins with conceptualising the floral pattern to be embroidered, drawing it in paper, making a block of the pattern, the design’s marking on fine, sheer fabrics like muslin, cotton, or silk using water-soluble ink or chalk. Artisans then employ various stitches, such as the basic running stitch, satin stitch, and stem stitch, to create intricate patterns and motifs.

The artisans’ hands move deftly, transforming the fabric into a canvas of art with exquisite floral designs, paisleys, and geometrical shapes. The result is a harmonious and symmetrical creation that mesmerizes with its delicate beauty and finesse.

Types of Chikankari

Chikankari encompasses various styles and designs, each showcasing the diverse creativity of its artisans. Some of the popular types include “Shadow Work,” where the embroidery is done on the reverse side of the fabric, creating a translucent effect on the front. “Murri” involves small pearl-like stitches, “Bakhiya” showcases the fine herringbone stitch, and “Phanda” features small, circular knots, bijli, orma, jali, keel kangan, kaudi are some of the stitches used in the finer pieces of Chikankari.

Cultural Significance

Beyond its aesthetic appeal, Chikankari holds profound cultural significance. It represents a legacy of artistry passed down through generations, connecting the present to its vibrant past. This art form not only serves as a source of livelihood for numerous artisans but also helps preserve traditional craftsmanship, fostering a sense of pride in India’s cultural heritage.

Modern Adaptations

While Chikankari remains deeply rooted in tradition, it has evolved with the changing times. Contemporary designers have embraced this art form, infusing it with modern aesthetics and designs. Chikankari now adorns not only traditional garments like sarees, salwar suits, and kurtas but also contemporary outfits, fusion wear, and even western attire, appealing to a broader audience.

Global Appeal

Chikankari’s timeless charm and versatility have garnered global recognition. Fashion enthusiasts, designers, and celebrities from across the world appreciate the finesse and beauty of Chikankari. Its popularity has extended far beyond India’s borders, making it a sought-after fashion trend internationally.

Preserving the Legacy

Despite its enduring appeal, Chikankari faces challenges in the modern era. Mass production, machine embroidery, and imitations pose threats to the authenticity and value of handcrafted Chikankari. Therefore, efforts to preserve and promote this art form, such as supporting local artisans and creating awareness about its cultural significance, are crucial to safeguarding its legacy.

Where do I buy my authentic Chikankari dress?

The elegance of Chikankari is forever and for all occasions! It makes outstanding summer wear and also winter wear when you wrap yourself with a pashmina shawl. A woman can wear it to the office and to a party too. It makes an excellent choice in the haldi rasam in a marriage and also in festivities of Holi.

The versatility and elegance along with fantastic comfort make the chikankari collection a must-have in everybody’s wardrobe ensemble.  It, therefore, makes sense to ask where you buy an authentic Chikankari kurta.

Chikankari is an intricate hand-embroidered cloth, which becomes costly as an artist takes a long time to complete one cloth. The time depends on the intricacies and complexity of the design and type of clothes That is used for the dress.

The immense demand and comparably high price point have led to the creation of machine embroidered variety. But any connoisseur of this art form would tell you that a machine-embroidered Chikankari dress is the tenth-best version of an original work. They might be easier on the pocket but will be a far cry from authentic Chikankari. The best way to confirm is to look at the reverse side of the garment to look for the uneven beauty of human endeavor. Anything too uniform is machine-made.

In Lucknow, there are many outlets in Hazratganj, Aminabad, and Chowk where you can buy authentic Chikankari. There are many designer houses, that are doing excellent work. They are experimenting with different kinds of clothes, motives, colors, and designs of clothes. These experiments help Chikanakri reach a larger audience and enlarged its fan following. The cloth from designer houses is available from their website or other e-commerce platforms.

Epilogue

Chikankari, with its timeless elegance and intricate craftsmanship, stands as a testament to India’s rich cultural heritage. This art form’s delicate beauty has fascinated generations and continues to be celebrated in the modern world. As we cherish and promote Chikankari, we contribute to the preservation of this precious legacy for future generations to admire and cherish. Let us embrace the artistry of Chikankari and ensure that it remains an everlasting symbol of elegance and heritage.

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Kumuud Rai embodies the spirit of entrepreneurship with a profound commitment to safeguarding and fostering traditional handloom and embroidery craftsmanship of India. Her visionary initiative, Amzuk, stands as a distinguished design house dedicated to crafting exquisite garments.

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